Soothing, sweet and piquant desserts to round off a lovely summer lunch
After lunch, the table still scattered with crumbs, squeezed lemons and the shrapnel from the shells of a pile of grilled langoustines, we brought out fruit water ices to eat in the late afternoon shade. There was a sorbet of apricots, barely frozen, the colour of the setting sun, and another vivid with lemon and thyme. The sorbets cooled our tongues after the heat of the shellfish and for five minutes there was blissful silence.
You don’t need an ice cream machine to make sorbets, but having access to one will give a smoother texture. If you haven’t got one, just remember to give the fruit purée a stir every hour as it freezes. Folding the frozen surface and those sparkling outer edges that are first to freeze into the middle will produce an ice akin to one which has been churned.
Nigel Slater’s lemon thyme water ice and pistachio cookie recipes